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The lock has become faulty on the top gate St Anthonys Drive. The shackle comes out from the body of the lock when the code is entered and opened. To lock the gate put the shackle back into the body of the lock and continue as you would normally lock it, then scramble the numbers and make sure it is locked.

Both entrance gate locks now have the same fault. Ive seen members put the code in and then yank with force to open the shackle. We believe with this type of force being used is damaging the ball bearings inside the lock mechanism. We have had advice from Geo Spence where we purchased the locks from, they have said unnecessary force is being used for this type of frequent fault. Can we make sure we are treating the locks on the entrance gates with due care so this doesnt keep happening. The locks are over £60 each.

Blog Created By Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

Plot 4 Marie, Jim, and Michelle came up with this idea of putting socks over the sweetcorn once it becomes established. I believe the rats and magpies can’t get at the corn to strip it all. So many sweetcorn plants have been eaten this year. So, give it a try.

Blog by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary) Photograph Marie Darlow

You don’t need a compost bin to make compost, you can simply make a compost heap. A compost bin makes your garden or allotment a lot tidier. Plastic compost bins are useful making good use of space. Ideally a compost bin sits on soil in a sunny position, as placing one in the shade takes the compost longer to form.

Hot Composting – You construct the compost heap carefully with the right materials in even layers. You wait for it to heat up, then start to cool down , then you have to turn it to mix up the layers. And then do it all again, finally you can relax then let it mature for several weeks before use.

Cold Composting – Most people don’t have time to make a hot compost or they don’t have the right mix of materials. You can take a more relaxed approach with cold composting. You throw things in as & when you have them & let it decompose in its own time.

Things To Compost –  Compost breaks down because bacteria, fungi & mini beasts eat organic matter. They need a balanced diet of browns & greens (equal amounts by volume) .  Browns – Carbon Rich Materials – Twigs, dead leaves, cardboard, newspaper, straw, hay, wood shavings.  Greens – Full Of Nitrogen – Fresh leaves & stems, grass cuttings, vegetable peelings, Apple cores, tea leaves, coffee grounds, faeces from vegetarian animals. You can also add egg shells for calcium but crush them up first as they are slow to break down.

Blog By Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

Potato blight is a disease caused by a fungus like organism that spreads rapidly in the foliage and in potato tubers in wet humid weather, causing collapse & decay. The initial symptom of blight on potatoes is a rapidly spreading, watery rot of leaves, that shrivel & turn brown, also causing brown lesions on the stems. If allowed to spread unchecked, the disease will reach the tubers, affected tubers will have a reddish brown decay below the skin, firm at first but soon developing into a soft rot as the tissues are invaded by bacteria. Blight is airborne & travels at rapid speeds.

Keep a close eye on your potatoe patch for any signs of blight, and remove any infected leaves as you see them. Obviously the more diligent you are in this respect the longer you can prevent the spread of the disease. Removing infected leaves is particularly successful if the weather turns dry after doing it. If over 10 % of the foliage is affected cut of all the growth at soil level, this should prevent the tubers in the ground from infection. infected foliage should be removed or burned. There is no chemical spray on the market to prevent the disease but these good hygiene tips could help

• Always buy your seed potatoes from a reputable supplier
• If watering is required apply to the base of the plant
• Blight spores on foliage are washed down through the soil & will infect tubers, earthing up potatoes can reduce levels of infection.
• Crop rotation

Blog & Research by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

The Development Of The Allotment – Part 2

• 1975 An interest in self-sufficiency & the popular television show “The good life” caused a rise in interest in allotments in the 1970s.
• 2002 Organic growing got a big boost as Monty Don took over presenting “gardeners world”
•  Many people nowadays are determined to” grow their own”. The new allotmenteer is younger, and is usually female, than in times gone by.
• Modern allotment & kitchen gardeners have found support from celebrity chefs , many who are happy to get their hands dirty in search of fresh organic edibles.
• Even children are starting to “grow their own” with a number of local & national campaigns supporting in the development of school vegetable gardening clubs.

Blog & Research by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

The Development Of The Allotment

• AD410 in the Saxon times, communities cleared land together, sharing out ‘allotted land’ areas between themselves.
• 1066 Following the Norman conquest , land ownership was confined to lords of the manor & the church.
• 1600 During the reign of Elizabeth the first the first evidence of allotments is made, as land is given to the poor to compensate them for the enclosure of common land.
• 1845 The general enclosure act included a requirement to provide land for allotments where common ground was enclosed.
• 1887 The allotments & cottage gardens for compensation for crops act obliged local authorities to provide allotments, if there was a required demand.
• 1907 the small holdings & allotment act clarified the responsibilities of local authorities to provide allotments.
• 1914 Germanys blockade during the first world war led to an increased demand for allotments , although after the war it fell again.
• 1939 The second world war , and its ‘DIG FOR VICTORY’ campaign brought allotments & gardening to the forefront of British life. The amount of allotments in the British Isles peaked at 1.5 million.
• 1960 Disuse & development led to a decrease in allotments that were available.

                        Blog & Research by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

                                        To be Continued   ……

The Development Of The Allotment

• AD410 in the Saxon times, communities cleared land together, sharing out ‘allotted land’ areas between themselves.
• 1066 Following the Norman conquest , land ownership was confined to lords of the manor & the church.
• 1600 During the reign of Elizabeth the first the first evidence of allotments is made, as land is given to the poor to compensate them for the enclosure of common land.
• 1845 The general enclosure act included a requirement to provide land for allotments where common ground was enclosed.
• 1887 The allotments & cottage gardens for compensation for crops act obliged local authorities to provide allotments, if there was a required demand.
• 1907 the small holdings & allotment act clarified the responsibilities of local authorities to provide allotments.
• 1914 Germanys blockade during the first world war led to an increased demand for allotments , although after the war it fell again.
• 1939 The second world war , and its ‘DIG FOR VICTORY’ campaign brought allotments & gardening to the forefront of British life. The amount of allotments in the British Isles peaked at 1.5 million.
• 1960 Disuse & development led to a decrease in allotments that were available.

                                             Blog & Research by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

                                        To be Continued   ……

Just letting members know that we have been judging plots over this growing season the winners & Runners up will be announced in September/October. Best kept plot 1st prize £30 Second prize £20. Also the best newcomer to the site £30 runner up prize £20.

Old Lane allotments Committee

July is one of the driest months so a lot of time may be spent watering your plot. Although the hectic sowing of the first part of the year is past, there are still things to sow, plant, and happily harvest. Those early potatoes should be coming out of the ground by the end of this month, and although they do not store as long as main crop varieties they will store before you finish eating them.

Leeks – Finish transplanting or “dibbing in” leeks raised in pots, modules, or temporary seed beds. They should be in their final position this month. If you have too many to transplant cut them up & put them in a stir fry instead of spring onions.

Peas & French Beans – This is your last chance for sowing or planting out peas & beans. any later the pods are unlikely to develop in time.

Root Vegetables – Sow your last batch of beetroot now. Late carrot & turnip varieties can still go in at the end of this month.

Other crops you can still sow – Radish, spring onion, Kale, Chinese cabbage, Lettuce, Spring cabbage, last chance to plant out any Brussels sprouts, winter cabbage, autumn cauliflowers you have been growing from seed.

Don’t forget to keep your onions weed free, summer thinning can be now done on apple, pear, plum trees etc. Keep the hoe in your hand & keep on top of those weeds.

Blog By Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

Plant Strategically

Plant Strategically & save water. For example, create miniature reservoirs for thirsty plants such as courgettes by banking up a miniature levee around each plant. This holds the water in place, allowing it to slowly drain into the soil without rather than running off. You can also sink plant pots into the ground then water into these, or cut the bottom off a plastic drinks bottle, prick holes into the cap then bury it upside down into the sol to slow-release delivery of water direct to the roots. If the weather is dry at sowing time, water along the seed drills before sowing. Allow the water to drain & then water again, then sow & cover with soil. There is no need   to water again after covering the seeds over. They will have a perfectly moist, cool environment in which to germinate.

When planting out seedlings or young plants, correct water is crucial. Water into the planting hole before planting, set the young plant into the ground, then water again to settle the soil around the root ball. The additional moisture around the root ball will get the plant off to a really strong start..

Blog by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)