Author: oldlanelottswp

Pigeons & Birds

Although birds are responsible for some damage to your crops by far the worst culprit is the wood pigeon.  They do maximun damage to your brassica plants in Spring & Winter when food is scarce. They can reduce a cabbage to a few stalks overnight. It’s not just the cabbage family (brassicas) which they attack, they enjoy beans, peas, turnips & even Swedes, asset as fruit & berries when in season. Pigeons are said to be clever birds, scarecrow & rattling bottles on canes don’t seem to disturb them.

The only answer is to put netting over your crops, you need to make sure the netting is supported otherwise birds will press down on the netting to gain access, & it goes down to ground level or they will find their way under your netting. Pigeons can destroy your hole crop in a day. Always remember to net your crops, don’t think or I will do it tommorow, there is nothing more demoralizing than going to your plot & half of your crops have been eaten. The Robin for example helps us on the allotment when you are winter digging it will feast on the pests on the top of your soil.

Remember we have brassica collars outside are main hut building for members to take, they will help with young seedlings from the weather & pigeons, until the plants have developed.

Blog by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

newsletter 21

Please click/double click on the link above to read our April newsletter.

Enjoy reading

Newsletter editor & content Steve Johnston : Content Mark Burton

Photo by Bich Tran on Pexels.com

Things should really get going on the allotment in April, the days will start to lengthen & temperatures start to rise.  Do keep an eye on the weather forecasts as a cold snap or snow are not unheard of in April & the occasional frost is to be expected.  The first rule is never trust the weather.

There is plenty to sow & plant outside especially if the month of March was not suitable.Onion sets & shallots can be planted now, remember shallots need a long time in the ground. Aim to get your seed potatoes planted by the end of the month, you can start to sow carrots & peas outside. Remember though the peas are a good snack for mice, so keep them covered. Radish can now be sown outside & keep sowing every three to four weeks for a continuous supply over the summer.  Beetroot can be sown directly outside,but may need covering if the soil is too wet, also leeks & Turnip.

Aubergines, chillies , tomatoes can now be sown in the greenhouse as they all need a long growing season. You can also sow cucumber seeds in the greenhouse for planting outside later. Sweetcorn also needs a long growing season, it would be ideal to start them in modules under cover.  Courgettes, pumpkins & other squashes can be started in the greenhouse, also kale, marrows, climbing beans & dwarf French beans under cover. Start sowing also celery indoors, aubergines, & Summer cabbages & other variety’s from the brassica family.

Lettuce,rocket & salad leaves can also be sown outside along with root vegetables all dependent on the weather of course.

Blog created by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

The cauliflower probably originated in countries bordering the Mediterranean sea. Today cauliflowers are a major commercial crop in the United Kingdom. The cauliflower is named as a “super food” cauliflower eaten raw is an excellent source of vitamin C, K, B6, potassium, folate, & fibre. It is very high in protein, thiamine, & magnesium.

Cauliflowers do best in deeply dug, fertile soil It is important to keep the soil moist at all stages of the plants development. The seedlings are best transplanting to their cropping position to keep growth disruption to a minimum. Dig in plenty of manure in the Autumn.

Always remember to red the seed packet for growing instructions

Blog & research by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

Photographs of our site Chairman (Mick Hogan) erecting a new shed for one of our plot members Penny Barber on plot 33S

Blog & Photos created by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

By far the worst pests to the vegetable grower is the slug & the snail, it doesn’t matter what you grow or where you grow it the slug is waiting to devour the crop before you do. They are not fussy eaters but they do prefer young seedlings. Below are some remedies for slug & snail prevention.

1. A container half buried in the ground and half filled with beer. The slug is lured by the scent & tumbles to its death .
2. Self adhesive copper tape around pots & planters deters the slug & snail & gives them a small electric shock when attempting to cross it.
3. Eggs shells is an old favorite. to put around your vulnerable plants.
4. Grit & gravel – the finely crushed horticultural grit makes a good barrier as it has sharp edges.
5. Nut shells – the sharp edges make good barriers- around vulnerable plants.
6. You can also trap them under grapefruit or orange skins the slug likes to hide away from predatory birds in the day time.
7. Slug/snail pellets have had a bad press the theory being that the poisoned slugs will be eaten by birds, frogs, & other helpful creatures who feed upon slugs/snails & poison them in turn. The other concern is they might be eaten directly by pets. The pellets if used should be scattered thinly over an area not just dumped in piles. Piling them up is counter productive as they contain an attractant & so the slug will find each pellet. The pellets contain a repellent to discourage animals from eating them & the blue color repels birds as well.

Blog by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

KALE

Kale belongs to the Brassica family & is one of the most trouble free, hardy species amongst them. It is said to have been on European soil for at least 3,000 years before it spread with a cultivation boom to the rest of the world. Recently named as a “super food” kale is seeing another global boom with varieties ranging in colour, flavour, & culinary uses to suit all tastes. The ancient Greeks used it for medicinal purposes & believed eating the leaves could cure drunkenness.

Kale contains vitamins & minerals that are hard to source anywhere else. It contains many antioxidants’ to help with the ageing process. Kale is also rich in sulphur compounds which play a vital role in the detoxification process- making it the perfect food choice if you need some liver support. It is hardy & thrives in winter time & can survive in temperatures as low as – 15 degrees Celsius.

Always remember to read the seed packet for growing instructions

Blog & research by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

The Great Tit on Old Lane Allotments

I thought I would add some bird facts to Micks picture. The Great Tit can be seen in woodlands, parks & gardens across the United Kingdom. They can be seen all year round, they eat insects, seeds & nuts. A Great tit clutch can be anything from five – eleven eggs, with the female doing all the incubation. The chicks usually leave the nest 20 days after hatching. The Great tit owes much of its success to its adaptability, while increasing numbers in Britain may well be because it is an enthusiastic user of garden feeding stations.

Blog & Research by Mark Burton – Photograph by Mick Cooper

Planting potatoes

Plant your chitted potatoes when the soil starts to warm up, usually in mid- March to early April. Start by digging a trench 7.5 – 13cm (3-5 inch) deep, add a sprinkling of fertiliser to your trench before you begin planting. Plant early potatoes about 30cm (12 inch) apart with 40-50cm (16-20 inch) between the rows, second earlies & maincrops about 38cm (15 inch) apart with 75cm (30 inch) between the rows. Handle your chitted seed potatoes (tubers) with care, gently setting them in to the trench with the shoots pointing upwards, be really careful not to break the shoots. Cover the potatoes lightly with soil & fill in the trench. As soon as the shoots appear, earth up each plant by covering it with a ridge of soil so the shoots are just buried. You need to do this at regular intervals creating a small mound around the plant to prevent any sun damage or element damage.

Harvesting

Your home grown potatoes should be ready for lifting from June until September, depending on the varieties & the growing conditions. Earlies can be lifted & eaten as soon as they are ready, this will be when above -ground growth is still green,& usually as soon as the flowers open on the plant. Second & maincrop varieties can be kept in the ground much longer, until late September, even though above-ground growth may well be looking past its best. Two weeks before you lift the crop, cut the growth off the plants at ground level. This should give the skins of the potatoes sufficient time to toughen up, making them far less prone to damage from lifting and easier to store.

Blog written by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary)

Arium Summer Workshops

Please click/double click on the link above to access this years Summer workshops that will be taking place through :

Leeds City Council (Parks & Countryside Department) The Arium, Thorner Lane, Seacroft, Leeds, LS14 3FB

Anybody wishing to be involved need to contact The Arium direct

Blog Created by Mark Burton (Allotment Secretary) – Working with LCC (Parks & Countryside) Department.